Twenty years ago, Louis Vuitton's then creative director, Marc Jacobs, tapped artist Takashi Murakami for a colourful collaboration.
The resulting collection, which included a multicoloured monogram (the first time the house's recognizable monogram had been remixed by an outside collaborator) would become one of the most iconic in fashion history.
A punctuating piece of the 2000's pop culture puzzle, the colourful pieces continue to be coveted by fashion collectors around the world today.
This January, the French luxury fashion house has tapped Murakami again for a re-edition of the memorable release. The Louis Vuitton x Murakami collection features more than 200 designs, including handbags, shoes, small leather goods and more.
Generating buzz online as soon as it was rumoured to be happening, there's some speculation that this collection could help spur the luxury sector out of its slump. And, considering that the original collection still holds favour with so many fashion fans 20 years on, we wonder if it just might do it.
But what would an expert say on the matter?
An aficionado on all things Louis Vuitton, we asked Garth Jackson, a Vancouver-based PR agency owner and founder of Reluxe Luxury Resale, to dish on the new release, the must-buy styles, what to know before you buy and more.
Q: As an LV expert, what's your take on the Takashi Murakami re-release?
A: It’s fun, it’s timely, and it will give consumers a reason to make appointments to see new collections. Most of all, it will drive traffic into luxury retail stores. It will even benefit competitors as consumers
seek, compare, and indulge in the new year. Or will they?
The prices are not so much an elephant in the room as a point of conversation among LV fanatics and collectors. We know the price ofgoods has increased rapidly in the luxury market, and with that growth,
the relationships between sales associates and consumers have become increasingly important.
the relationships between sales associates and consumers have become increasingly important.
The question is: how many people are already on a waitlist? Will new clients be able to see the collection in person? Is there a visual merchandising strategy, or will it be private rooms and personal
shopping deliveries that drive sales? And will there be enough inventory to satisfy the insatiable appetite of the Vancouver luxury market?
shopping deliveries that drive sales? And will there be enough inventory to satisfy the insatiable appetite of the Vancouver luxury market?
Q: Do you think it will resonate more with Louis Vuitton collectors or all fashion fans?
A: Louis Vuitton has created massive digital appeal driven by influencers, celebrity spokespeople, and die-hard LV enthusiasts.
For some collectors, the reintroduction of discontinued, must-have items that previously existed in Canada in limited numbers might be difficult to fathom.
For others, it’s their chance to own what they missed the first time around. Managing expectations and deliveries of these new products will be the store’s greatest asset—and its most challenging dance.
Fashion fans may turn to the secondhand market to join the Murakami movement, while others might splurge on the excitement and commit to a bag from the new collection. One thing is for sure: we’re going to see the vibrant colours of this collection seep into mainstream fashion, events and experiences.
Q: Any early predictors for the MVP pieces?
A: The Speedy’s are a cult classic, popularized by pop stars and Hollywood teens. This time, there’s a smaller option: the Monogram Multicolor (MMC) Nano Speedy or Alma BB. Both appeal to a wide variety of consumers, and early reports suggest they’re priced reasonably for today’s market.
Small leather goods will also see high desirability among new and existing clients, such as the MMC Passport Cover, MMC Charlotte Pencil Case, and the adorable Monogram Superflat Bag Charm Bijou Sac Panda.
Speaking of reinventions, we might see a resurgence of Lindsay Lohan carrying the MMC LV Cup in one hand and a Mean Girls-approved MMC Pochette Accessoire in the other.
Q: Are there any items in the collection you're surprised to see?
A: I was pleasantly surprised to see the return of the TM Panda. It was highly coveted and hard to find in the secondhand market. With the rise in demand for Y2K LV products, many owners sold theirs to finance other coveted items, like the mini Kelly bags by Hermes.
The custom packaging and MMC-printed tissue paper alone would excite any collector and newbie to the brand. It is fun and playful and what fashion needs at the moment.
The most exciting creation is the Malle Speedy Trunk, which consists of 33 MMC Speedy bags — each featuring a different colour of leather trim and handles. It’s housed in a historic MMC trunk, with an approximate retail value of 650,000 Euros or $933,989 Canadian dollars (prices are not yet confirmed).
For a time, Canada was home to the 33 MMC Marilyn Handbag Trunk.
Q: Are there any misconceptions about the Monogram Multicolore LV items?
A: For many, Monogram Multicolore (MMC) is not ideal for daily use—especially the white canvas, which requires extra care to avoid issues like colour transfer.
The MMC canvas traditionally features 33 different colours, and production runs often had slight variations in the prominence of certain colours. For example, some models might feature brighter pinks or greens than others.
Collectors should also note that vachetta (natural leather) changes colour over time, depending on the owner’s use. Dark leather gloves, for instance, may bleed dye onto vachetta handles. But don’t fret—this natural aging process is part of the charm, much like how a saddle conforms to its jockey.
Q: Do you think this launch will drive up the price for archival Takashi Murakami pieces?
A: This has been the trend with other iconic LV lines, such as Monogram Denim, Monogram Cerise, and Monogram Miroir. I believe it will depend on current consumer preferences and styles.
While we’ve recently seen a shift from micro-bags to oversized suede totes, classics never fail. The top-handle, shoulder-slinging, cross-body consumer is bound to crave a piece of the bright canvas, cementing a fashionable start to 2025. This could indeed drive up prices for original TM pieces.
A few months ago, the industry was talking about collaboration fatigue in the fashion world. Is this the revival we need to breathe life back into design mash-ups?
It will definitely create some excitement in stores as it has online but I do not think it will ignite life back into design mash-ups. It might inspire newness and levity from brands as the luxury marketplace has been challenged as of late.
What I hope it does is inspire creativity and brand experiences while paying homage to the past and making way for new ideas and new designs.